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Lifestyle


July 26th, 2006

Vintage Cars, Vintage Food

Great places to dine around Monterey

Story by Michael T. Lynch


The Patisserie Boissiere in Carmel provides the warmth of a fireplace in a beamed dining room with beautiful antler chandeliers and sconces.

For those of you lucky enough to attend the ten days of automotive madness that includes the Monterey Historic Automobile Races, the Pebble Beach Concours and The Quail – A Motorsports Gathering, as well as dozens of other public and private events, here is an opportunity to treat your stomach as well as feed your automotive passion. In this issue, VeloceToday guides you through the culinary experience that is the Monterey Peninsula.

Some caveats. Monterey is not New York or San Francisco. The lifestyle is more rustic. If a restaurant has no customers, it may close early. Also, there is no pattern to which days restaurants close, and many are closed on Sunday. Be sure to call and see if your choice is open. The positive side is that many chefs in the area have done their time in the great restaurants of the world, so there is no lack of talent. Another local quirk is that some parts of Carmel have no street numbers. That is why some addresses are presented as they are. Finally, Monterey Week is an expensive proposition. Some of the choices are in all the guide books, but many aren’t. I have tried to limit my choices to vendors who offer exceptional value for the money. Having said that, the area is one of the most expensive in the nation, and inexpensive here is not the same as inexpensive in Iowa or Georgia.


Car people visiting the Monterey Peninsula probably visit Pat Phinny's Baja Cantina more often than any other local destination except Laguna Seca.

A must stop for car enthusiasts is the Baja Cantina in Carmel Valley. Owner, Pat Phinny is the consummate enthusiast. A racer himself, his two sons are now competing as well. The margaritas are great and the food is Mexican at its best. For car guys and gals, however, the highlight of the visit is Phinny’s memorabilia collection, which includes everything from cars to an Offy engine, artwork, signed posters and scores of pieces covering every inch of the walls and ceilings. Generations of car clubs and competitors at nearby Laguna Seca have passed through. Valley Hills Center, 7166 Carmel Valley Road, Carmel (property abuts the Quail Lodge). Inexpensive to Medium. 831-625-2252.

The Peninsula coastline is part of the Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary, the largest in the U.S. and fresh fish is a cornerstone of Peninsula cuisine. Unless you are allergic, you have to enjoy some properly prepared fish while you are here.

That desire will bring you to Passion Fish in Pacific Grove. Owners Cindy and Ted Walter create wonders with local fish and organic vegetables. It is one of the country’s finest quality fish to price values. Their other-than-fish entrees are equally good. This year we are unfortunately suffering through a truncated salmon season, caused by a depleted stock in Washington state, whose salmon range as far as our waters. Don’t get your heart set on salmon, because it might not be available. The Walters are leaders of the sustainable seafood movement and won’t serve farm-raised salmon, only fresh caught. Their remarkable wine list is available for a minimal markup from their cost. You decide whether to pocket the savings or have two bottles for the price of one in other restaurants. You are on vacation after all. 701 Lighthouse, Pacific Grove. Medium. 831 655-3311. Open seven days. Dinner only.


Max's in Pacific Grove works both sides of the world with Asian and European dishes. This is a recent pasta of the day, basil fettuccini with a seafood medley. Yes, it tastes as good as it looks.

Italian car lovers almost always feel the same way about Italian cucina. One of the area’s nicest dining experiences can be found at Café Rustica in Carmel Valley. Although sold earlier this year by legendary hosts Sylvia Medina and Paulo Kautz, the staff remains the same as does the food and service. This cozy cottage has it all, pizzas done in a wood-burning oven, salads with exceptional greens, fresh from Salinas, great fresh fish and fine pastas. The trip out Carmel Valley will also make you realize that developers don’t always have their way with the Northern California landscape. You’ll see miles of ridgeline without a single house. Everyone loves this place, so reservations are absolutely necessary. 10 Delfino Place, Carmel Valley. Medium to Expensive. 831 659-4444.

Max’s Grill in Pacific Grove is another good stop for an Italian fix. Don’t let the Asian-Italian fusion menu throw you off. The Asian dishes are exceptional, but Chef Hisayuki Muramatsu (Just call him Max) has classic European training and was head chef at Maxim's of Paris in Tokyo. Although different, the broths in both the cioppino and the seafood pasta are miraculous. 209 Forest Avenue, Pacific Grove. Medium. 831 375-7997.

Carmel’s Bistro Giovanni is a recent offshoot of one of Carmel’s most respected Italian restaurants. It’s a wonderful setting for a fine Italian meal, and sitting in the rear gives you a great view of the action. Just ask for Dave Brown, one of the Peninsula’s most gracious hosts. He will work with you to make sure your experience is memorable. It’s all good here and be sure to check out the remarkable wine list. There are Tuscans and Super Tuscans from $35 to $800. San Carlos between 5th and 6th, Carmel. Medium to Expensive. 831 626-2003. Open seven days.


The minimalist, relaxing dining area of Passionfish in Pacific Grove, where some of the finest fish dishes in the country are served.

Massimo Sartorio is an American-educated architect who dreamed of having a restaurant. The dream has come true at La Giostra, a Tuscan-style restaurant right on Monterey’s motel row. While the setting is mid-twentieth century Wendy’s, the cucina takes you right to Italy. The cracker-crust pizzas are wonderful and the roast chicken, done in the wood-burning pizza oven, will amaze you. Massimo has entertained car people before, so let him know what you drive, especially if it’s Italian. 1244 Munras Avenue, Monterey. Medium. 831 647-1133

Monterey was a provincial capital when Mexico was under Spanish rule and was later the first capital of California. Its heritage provides a form of Mexican cuisine that has been influenced by the Eastern coast of Mexico along the Yucatan Peninsula. This relies on Caribbean flavors, including fish served with wonderful slaws, salads and black beans.

One source of this style is Pepper’s Mexicali Café. The Monterey area is known for the preservation of its historic structures and Peppers is set in two historic storefronts half a block off Pacific Grove’s main street, Lighthouse. The 1940s neon and metal sign of a former occupant, La Espanola Grocery hangs above the bar. The dining room is full of activity and there’s a great bar scene. All their tequila is 100% agave, so the many varieties of margaritas are delicious. San Diego is supposedly the home of the fish taco, but Pepper’s fish tacos and fajitas are well beyond anything I ever tasted in seven years in La Jolla. 170 Forest Avenue. Pacific Grove. 831 373-6892. Inexpensive to Medium.

Another is Turtle Bay Taqueria, where you order at a counter and your food is brought to you. The fish tacos and burritos are wonderful, and the bowls feature various versions of fish or chicken with Caribbean salad, rice and refried black beans. All the fish is fresh caught, not farmed. This may be the best combination of quality ingredients and price in the area. Turtle Bay has two locations at 431 Tyler Street in downtown Monterey (831 333-1500) and 1301 Fremont Boulevard in Seaside (831 899-1010). The Monterey location has more seating, which can be important during Concours week. Inexpensive.

For more traditional Mexican fare, try Jose’s Bar and Grill, one block off Cannery Row in Monterey. This family-run restaurant is so clean that it sparkles. There is a deck at the rear with a view of the bay. Watch out for host Alzi. When he starts tipping the Tequila bottle, the margaritas can kick like a mule. If you want something changed on the menu, just tell him. He wants you to enjoy yourself. 638 Wave Street, Monterey. Inexpensive. 831 655-4419. Second location at 1612 Contra Costa, Sand City, only has a beer and wine license. 831 899-0345.

Historians say the burrito dates from the days of the great rancheros, when the kitchen staff would wrap cooked meats in tortillas and send them out with the workers in the morning so they would have lunch out on the range. Northern California taquerias have raised this simple dish to a fine art, unmatched elsewhere in the country. For some great burritos, go to Papa Chano’s Taqueria in the heart of downtown Monterey. 462 Alvarado St, Monterey. 831 646-9587. Inexpensive. There is a second location at the Edgewater Center near the intersection of Fremont Boulevard and Highway 1 in Seaside. 831 393-9133.

In an area as diverse as Monterey County, there is obviously some fine Asian food available. Three of the best are Tommy’s Wok, My Thai Cuisine and China Delight.

Tommy’s leans toward the Szechuan and Hunan provinces, but also does some Mandarin dishes. They will make it as spicy as you wish. The traditional dishes are excellent and there’s a lot of food. For something a little lighter, they do wonders with Sea Bass in black bean sauce. In an alley off Mission between Ocean and 7th, Carmel. 624-8518. Inexpensive to Medium. Closed Monday.


You've never had a burrito like they make them in Northern California. Here's one from Papa Chano's in downtown Monterey.

My Thai is a little off the beaten track, but it’s definitely worth the short drive north of Monterey. Sam Bhundhumani is from Bangkok and the food tastes like it. There are no shortcuts here and the curries are simmered to their consistencies, not fixed with thickeners. The Panang Curry is among the best I’ve ever had, and I’ve had it in close to one hundred restaurants over the years. Sam also makes a mean whole fish and a great Pad Thai. 210 Reindollar Avenue, Marina. 831 883-9677. Inexpensive. Closed Sunday.

China Delight is in the Crossroads Shopping Village just off Highway 1 at Rio Road in Carmel. A beautifully appointed room provides solid Chinese classics. The string bean pork in spicy black bean sauce luncheon special at $6.25 is a great bargain. The Chinese angel hair delight is usually called Singapore Noodles and is exceptional. 133 Crossroads Boulevard (on Park Walk), Carmel. 831 625-3367. Inexpensive. Open seven days.

Finally, no trip is complete without a meal from the citadel of cuisine, La Belle France. The Patisserie Boissiere Restaurant and Bakery in Carmel doesn’t serve any wimpy nouvelle cuisine, but traditional country French fare in a charming setting. The beamed-ceiling main room is graced by a fireplace and wonderful antler chandeliers and sconces. Despite the straightforward nature of the food, traditional dishes like onion soup and Coquille St. Jacques are never caricatures, but seem as fresh and savory as the first time you had them. Save room for the deserts, there’s a bakery and pastry shop on the premises. Mission between Ocean and 7th, Carmel. 831 624-5008. Medium to Expensive. Closed Monday and Tuesday.

You’re going to see cars representing the finest in engineering and design in the history of the automobile. You owe it to yourself to enjoy the same level of quality in the meals you enjoy while you’re here. Buon Appetito..






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