Where to Shop and Eat at Rétromobile

In 2010, Lizzie Sexton accompanied her husband John to Rétro, but instead of hanging about at the show, she decided to explore the 15th arrondissement. “Not all of us are car fanatics,” she wrote. “But that’s not an excuse to skip the wonderful Rétromobile. Take advantage of the trip to discover a part of Paris with culture, food and fun.”

With the 2016 version of Rétro opening this week we re-publish Lizzie’s article sharing her experiences with our readers.

Story and Photos by Lizzie Sexton

Rétromobile is housed in the Parc des Expositions at the Porte de Versailles, on the southwest border of Paris and at the base of the 15ième arrondissement. Nine of ten residents of the 15ième will rank the number 12 métro line to downtown as the best thing coming out of their area. But luckily I met Antoine, the one in ten who urged me to “Restez ici chez nous pour un peu!” (Stay here with us for awhile!).

Antoine works at the Paris Expo Welcome Center at the front entrance to the Parc des Expositions. The friendly staff here are great sources of information, and advice, in at least four languages. The brochure-filled office, offering what must be the best coffee machine espresso in the world, also serves as a great rendezvous point.

Thanks to Antoine, I found that a long Rétro weekend allowed enough time to discover many treasures of the south 15th. All that you need are walking shoes, a map, and a sou or two for a p’tit coup or two (a penny or two for a small glass of wine or two). So come on and follow me on a unique Parisian adventure.

Let’s start by crossing Boulevard Lefébvre, [not named for André of Voisin and Citroën fame, but for François Joseph Lefébvre, who was Marshal of France during the Napoleonic Wars-ed.] towards the bistro, Chez Clément. Check out its wonderful exterior, adorned with its hodgepodge of copper pots. Stop into the newsstand on the corner to purchase your postcards. You’re now in real residential Paris where postcards can be hard to come by. Head up the hill on Boulevard Lefébvre. You will pass au Petit Paris, a quaint, traditional French bistro. It’s one of the nearby restaurants worth a mention, and a cozy spot to meet before, during or after Rétro.

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Continue up and over the hill. If you’re here on a Tuesday or Saturday you will pass through a small neighborhood market selling everything from bright multicolored peppers to pirated CDs. As you reach the Renault dealer, turn left on Rue Jules Dupré towards the Parc Georges Brassens (1921-1981). Not only is Georges Brassens one of my favorite French singers, but his park has become one of my favorite French parks. Even in the January frost, the park was full of pram pushing parents, skateboarding children, joggers and bloggers. Unfortunately, it was too cold for much kissing on the public benches, as Georges Brassens sang about, but this park will be worth a return visit once warmer weather arrives!

The Parc Georges Brassens was built on the site of the old Parisian abattoirs, or slaughterhouses, and reference is made of them in the form of park plaques and statues. One of the oldest vineyards in Paris is also on site and you can still see ancestors of those first vines. Walking toward the tower, you will discover a large pond, empty in winter. (Within the tower you’ll find immaculate rest rooms!) Turning right at the tower, and skirting the pond’s bank, you will pass the old puppet theatre, the Polichinelle, still in operation today. Duck in for some old fashioned entertainment, a little warmth, and a people watcher’s delight.

Straight ahead are the steel arches that used to house the “Horse Hall.” A bustling antique book market nestles under this structure each Saturday and Sunday. Or head directly across Rue Brancion to number 77. Here Max Poilâne offers you an eyeful of one of the prettiest boulangeries in all of Paris. The building itself, could be an enchanted cottage plucked from a fairy tale. The Poilâne family has been making their signature and prize winning “sourdough-ish” breads for almost a century and the years have allowed for a lot of practice.
Looking for more than a quick bite? Well, there are several options for charming and delicious dining nearby. Les Tontons, at 77 Rue Brancion, specializes in tartares of all sorts. From seafood to beef to cheese to fowl to fruit, you will find its tartare here.

If you’re interested in a more traditional meal, turn right off of Rue Brancion and down Rue des Morillons. At number 50 is Le Clos des Morillons, named after that ancient vineyard that you passed in the park. A Peruvian sous-chef here brings non-traditional spices to many traditional French favorites–the results are tantalizing. This is a real neighborhood favorite and a Parisian sleeper.

If your purse strings are feeling a little tight, how about enjoying a crêpe just down Rue des Morillons? Crêperie du Parc, in Place Jacques Marette, offers crêpes, both savory and sweet, for as little as 2.50€. If it’s warm, you can sit outside at the little tables, enjoying a glass of chardonnay and views of the large bull statues guarding the park’s entrance.

On the way to the crêperie, you might stop in to Le Repaire de Bacchus at 75 Rue de Morillons for a bottle of wine. France has two sales seasons each year and you are here right smack in the middle of one! (You will notice the “Soldes!” signs in almost every merchant’s window.) How about a rare bottle of St. Emillion for 30% off, or the cleverly named red blend “CHATO’SOURIS” (CATO’MOUSE) for only 6.90€?

From the crêperie take a right turn on Rue de Cronstadt and head up the hill. As you reach the busy intersection near the hill’s top turn left into Place Charles Vallin and continue straight onto Rue de la Convention (rdlC). Here you will find a bustling neighborhood rich with stores, cafés and restaurants. Of special interest are the delightful Fleurs d’Auteuil (56 rdlC) with its colorful flowers spilling down the sidewalk, Leonidas (117 rdlC), a Belgian chocolaterie, and Le Divan Jeunesse (203 rdlC), a wonderful children’s book store. There’s also a small and do-able Poste at 204 bis rdlC, perfect for those postcard stamps. Just past here, stop into the mouth watering La Ferme de Chantal (208 rdlC) and say bonjour to Chantal (Madame Bleuez to you and me). Take in, and maybe take home, some of her wonderful country meats, cheeses, pâtés and terrines.

At the top of the Rue de la Convention, we have reached Rue de Vaugirard. If you have time on your hands, find the large Cinéma Gaumont Convention. Most films today in France are shown in their original language (VOST), and thus you can always find at least several films here in English. You can buy your tickets on-line.

Or, you may want to follow my unwavering advice and “when in France, never say ‘no’ to pâtisserie!” Just a hop skip and a jump, to the right down Rue de Vaugirard, is the aptly named Aux Délices de l’Étoile du 15ième (337 rdV). I highly recommend the tarte aux fraise!

Now head down Rue de Vaugirard towards Rétromobile. As you walk down the rue, take in the sales at the very chic boutiques such as Lollipops (326 rdV), ProMod (330 rdV), Nocibé Institut deBeaute (350 rdV), and the adorable and innovative everything for baby store, La Do Ré at number 336.

Remarkably, regardless of all of these chic options, my favorite stop was the tried and true Monoprix (340 rdV)! With everything from greeting cards to lingerie to gourmet food to electronics to Paris guidebooks, Monoprix also has hundreds of items on sale. Monoprix is also a super place to grab a quick bite–everything from sushi-to-go to a sit-down lunch with wine is offered–all easy and affordable. Make a point to visit the food halls in the sous-sol (basement). Shopping here was easy, affordable and impressive.

As Rue de Vaugirard reaches Rue Desnouettes there are several additional dining options. The charming, apricot table clothed Gastroquet (10 rD) is as well known for its friendliness as it is for its delicious cuisine. L’Infinithé (7 rD) not only offers a delicious lunch, but also over 60 different teas and infusions. What a special place to get those postcards written!

One more lunch option is found farther down Rue de Vaugirard at the aptly named Green Food (362 rdV). This duck-in establishment serves delicious made to order salads, vegetarian to meaty, starting at 9€ and big enough for two. Salads are assembled in front of you by, well…beautiful women. (John LOVED this place–and he’s not that much of a salad fan!)

You’ve reached the bottom of Rue de Vaugirard and are almost back to Rétro. If you’re achy from the walk, why not stop into the internationally acclaimed Franck Besson (378 rdV) for a quick massage? Or treat yourself to a new “do” that you can tell everyone that you got in “Paree”? This is a quite chic looking and posh-feeling place with very nice people but not too expensive.

Once back at Porte de Versailles, you might even be tempted to join your car enthusiast significant other for some Rétromobile. Take your glass, find the free champagne, and wander through the exhibits. My husband and I have found a good compromise between his enthusiasm and my sometimes lack of it. John gives me an hour guided tour of his top ten of show, telling me why and how each one made his list.

You can also find food at Rétro, everything from a “snack pizza” for 4.90€ to a full dinner with pintade rotie de cidre (roast guinea fowl braised with cider) at Restaurant Orezza for 18.50€, not including a beverage. If you’re in a “prêt-á-porter” kind-of mood, DO spend the extra couple of euros for a sandwich from PAUL, where the bread alone is worth the extra sous!

Later on, be the host for a truly unique dining experience. La Cave de l’Os á Moëlle (181 Rue Lourmel) is, as my husband described it, like eating at your French grandmother’s house–and a grandmother with a wonderful wine cellar! Help yourself to some of grandma’s walnuts in the entryway as you wait to be seated. A lunch or dinner here is 22€ and includes as much as you’d like to eat of a multitude of rustic offerings–from a terrine de sanglier to a crème aux crustacés to île flottante. Don’t miss the best eggs that I’ve ever tasted—medium boiled, pulled from rosemary infused oil, and with yolks brighter than the sun bursting forth from their centers. Cut your own bread, and bus your own service. Serve yourself from the platters on your table, from those at others’ tables, and from the hot casseroles at the rear. I so enjoyed the opportunity to try a little of this and a soupçon of that. We shared an amazing Morgon wine that went seamlessly with everything for only 14.50€.

And there you have it; no need to be afraid of Rétromobile in February. One of the many pleasant results of this year’s trip is that both John and I are eager to return again next year, and expand the possibilities of a shared enthusiasm. Enjoy.