By Joe Hurwich
Photos by Joe Hurwich, Bob Golberg and Canossa staff
There are rallies that test you, rallies that impress you, and rallies that charm you. Then there is Terre di Canossa—the one that keeps pulling me back. This May, 7-10, marked my fourth time running in the event, and somewhere between the Ligurian coastline and the Apennine passes, I realized it has quietly become my favorite Italian motoring experience.
Not the most important—that crown still belongs to the Mille Miglia. Not the longest or the most punishing either. But the most fun? Absolutely. Terre di Canossa blends competition, culture, and camaraderie into something uniquely Italian at a five-star level, without the exhaustion that often shadows the bigger historic rallies.
This year I returned behind the wheel of my 1931 Aston Martin, with my longtime co driver, and friend Bob Goldberg navigating beside me. The car, with its purposeful stance and prewar mechanical honesty, felt perfectly at home threading through medieval towns and sweeping mountain roads. But even as an Aston man, I’ll admit: the Alfas stole more than their share of attention.
A Strong Showing from Alfa Romeo
For an event that draws an eclectic mix of marques from prewar Bentleys to postwar Jaguars, Ferraris, and Porsches, 2026 was a particularly good year for Alfa Romeo. Four cars represented the brand, each one a reminder of why Alfa’s design language and engineering philosophy have captivated enthusiasts for more than a century. Co-driver Bob Goldberg is an avid Alfa enthusiast who made note of the three 1959 Giulietta Spiders—each with its own personality—formed a kind of rolling tribute to the golden age of Italian motoring. A fourth Alfa, a Giulia GT, brought a different energy: purposeful, athletic, and unmistakably from the era when Alfa Romeo dominated touring car racing. Its raspy twin cam soundtrack echoed beautifully off stone walls in the hill towns, a reminder that some engines don’t just make power—they make music.
Together, the four Alfas added a distinctly Italian heartbeat to the field. Even among Ferraris, Maseratis, and the usual parade of British and German classics, the Alfas felt like the hometown heroes.
The Magic Moments: Lucca, Collodi, La Spezia, and the Walled Towns
One of the enduring highlights of Terre di Canossa is the privilege—because that’s what it feels like—of driving on top of the walls of Lucca. Bob and I walked on the wall three days earlier and when I told Bob we might drive on the wall, he was amazed! There’s nothing else quite like it in the rally world. The elevated, tree lined path, the soft morning light filtering through the leaves, the sound of vintage engines echoing across the rooftops… it’s a moment that blends history, serenity, and pure motoring joy.
Another memorable pause came at Villa Garzoni in Collodi, the birthplace of Pinocchio. The gardens are as theatrical as the story itself, and enjoying a coffee break there—surrounded by manicured terraces, fountains, and centuries of Tuscan charm—felt like stepping into a fairy tale before climbing back into a prewar sports car.

Villa Garzoni in Collodi, the birthplace of Pinocchio. It is a medieval village documented since the 12th century, known for its link to Carlo Lorenzini, who used the pen name Carlo Collodi and wrote The Adventures of Pinocchio.
Lunch that day was in Montecatini Terme, a town that seems designed for leisurely afternoons. The grand spa architecture, the tree lined boulevards, and the relaxed elegance made it a perfect midpoint before the rally pressed on.
And then there are the multitude of small towns. Many of them greet the rally with a kind of heartfelt enthusiasm that feels almost ceremonial. You enter a walled city expecting a quiet piazza, and instead you find the mayor waiting to welcome the cars, a local band playing, schoolchildren waving flags, and the whole town turning out as if the parade were for them—and in a way, it is. These moments of community warmth are as memorable as any mountain pass.
The Carrara Marble Tunnels: A Drive to Remember
One of the most challenging—and unforgettable—sections of this year’s route was the stretch through the marble country around Carrara. The rally threaded us through mile long, single lane tunnels carved directly into the mountains of pure white marble. No lights. No margin for error. Just the sound of your engine reverberating off stone walls that have supplied sculptors since Michelangelo.
Driving a 1931 Aston Martin through those dark, narrow passages was equal parts concentration, exhilaration, and fear. It was the kind of experience that reminds you why these rallies matter: they put you and your machine into places modern traffic would never allow.
Why Terre di Canossa Works
Part of the magic of this rally is its balance. The organizers understand that drivers want challenge, but they also want joy and comfort. They want competition, but they also want espresso stops in sunlit or sometimes rainy piazzas. They want to push their cars, but they also want to savor the landscapes, the food, and the friendships that form on the road.

The story behind the cop is very interesting. He was directing traffic at Carrera for us. His GPS told us differently from our map and we followed his instructions for a few hundred yards until his GPS rerouted him back the way we wanted to go! After that time, we had our own personal motorcycle escort for most of the rest of the rally.
The route—stretching from the Tyrrhenian Sea through Emilia Romagna and into the Apennines—offers everything: coastal sweepers, mountain switchbacks, historic centers, and long, flowing sections where vintage machinery can stretch its legs. The regularity trials are serious enough to keep you sharp, but not so relentless that you forget to look around.
And the atmosphere? Pure Italian hospitality. The kind that makes you feel less like a competitor and more like a guest of honor.
A Rally That Keeps You Coming Back
Driving a 1931 Aston Martin across Italy is always an adventure—equal parts mechanical sympathy, concentration, and delight. But doing it at Terre di Canossa, surrounded by passionate drivers and iconic cars like this year’s Alfa quartet, elevates the experience into something richer.
Four years in, I’ve learned that this rally doesn’t try to be the Mille Miglia. It doesn’t need to. Terre di Canossa has carved out its own identity: intimate, spirited, beautifully curated, and endlessly enjoyable.

Joe enjoys a visit to the Piaggio Museum, Pontedera, Province of Pisa, which has 5000 square metres of space and more than 250 models on display, the Piaggio Museum is Italy’s largest and most comprehensive collection devoted to motorcycling. https://www.museopiaggio.it/en
For Alfa Romeo enthusiasts, it’s a reminder of how deeply the brand’s DNA is woven into the fabric of Italian motoring culture. Whether it’s a Giulietta gliding through a mountain pass or a Giulia GT barking its way out of a tight village corner, the Alfas at Terre di Canossa don’t just participate—they belong.
And as long as they keep showing up, so will I.
AI “The phrase Terre di Canossa refers to the historic, expansive territories in central and northern Italy once ruled by the powerful 11th-century medieval noblewoman Matilda of Tuscany (also known as Matilda of Canossa). The name originates from the Castle of Canossa, which was the seat of her feudal state.”
https://terredicanossa.canossa.com/en/home/
A few more shots for the road…















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